One the absolute highlights of my visit, St Edmund's church in Southwold is one of -the most impressive parish churches in the country. Arriving late in the afternoon I was delighted to find the church still open and lose myself in its beautiful interior.
The building dates from the latter half of the 15th century and makes an assertive statement, all grandeur and civic pride on a grand scale. Great Perpendicular traceried windows punctuate the walls of the entire edifice and make it gloriously light inside (mostly plain glazed as no original glass survives and wartime bombing removed what the Victorians put in).
Within the eye is drawn to the hammerbeam roof, adorned with angels (though all are partially or wholly Victorian replacements for the originals that were mutilated by iconoclasts). The chancel beyond (structurally continuous) adds to the effect further with its ceiling painted in a heavenly shade of blue. A canopy of honour is created between the two halves with painted figures of angels, overpainted by restorers but stylistically clearly close to the original work underneath.
This ceilure of course added emphasis to the rood, long since vanished alas but the screen that supported it remains and is the most remarkable feature of the church, extending its entire width (though the screens in the aisles could be identified as separate additions). All the lower panels retain their sequence of late medieval painted figures including an unusual sequence of angels, but sadly all have been defaced by iconoclasts, most likely during the reign of Edward VI when the biggest militant purge of church artwork occurred. The quality and richness of detail however is still apparent.
The choir retains some fine medieval carved woodwork including choir stalls (the misericords are disappointingly plain designs, but the armrests feature more lively details). Ornate screens enclose this space on either side.
This vast church requires time to soak up its atmosphere and bask in its beauties, it is one of the loveliest buildings one could hope to visit and will reward any visitor to this pictureque seaside town, being generally kept open and welcoming within reasonable hours.
www.suffolkchurches.co.uk/Southwold.htm 