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Extract from "More Rough Travel Notes with an Architectural Eye - 2012":
Noting the glooming of the sky, I decide to adjust my programme and set off on a keen countryside excursion while still possible. Come with me; we’ll return to the historic centre in the afternoon.
Our main target is some oast-houses well out to the east. Why? Well, oast-houses are a strong traditional building form that’s fast disappearing. They were built in agricultural country for drying hops; and they produce fascinating shapes, groups of several cowl ventilators pointing down wind — functionally expressive architecture. They were an essential part of the Kent landscape, but as other drying methods are used today they’re rapidly being demolished or converted. So now’s the time if you want a photo, and I’d located a group about three miles along the Pilgrim’s Way.
Following the murder of Thomas à Becket (1170), Canterbury became the destination of pilgrim’s from all over Europe. And from Winchester in the west to Canterbury was a main pathway — now more-or-less preserved. But it also came from the east and the Dover coast.
This is still known as the Pilgrim’s Way, part of the North Downs Track. [Also part of the Via Francigena (Canterbury to Rome) I’d found in parts of northern Italy.] And it’s along here in spring-fresh Kent farming country that we’re heading.
Past ruins of St Augustine’s Abbey, along Longport, onto Pilgrim’s Way, and we cross over the rail line. Soon houses come to an abrupt end and our path leaves Canterbury behind as we stride through delightful rolling landscape. Contrasting vast patches of intense chrome-yellow rapeseed paddocks explode against fields of spring-fresh green; trees are pointed with lettuce-bright buds, others still muted in winter silhouette skeletons, capillaries against the sky.
P :-)
