The rugged Atlantic coast of south central Portugal glows in the sunset light near Quebrada Beach, southwest of Odeceixe.

I just returned from a 10 day visit to Portugal, highlighted by a 5 day bike ride from Lisbon south to Sagres on the Rota Vicentina. The trip afforded chances to see cork oak savannas, flowery meadows, small-scale agriculture, lovely towns, and of course the rugged coast. This photo was one of very few opportunities I had for sunset photography on the coast, as most of our accommodations were inland.

Many of you probably recognize the iceplant in the foreground, a naturalized though non-native plant used to stabilize soils in many coastal areas, including the pacific coast of North America. Iceplant is native to South Africa.

Tags:   Odeceixe Praia da Quebrada Portugal Atlantic Ocean sunset Rota Vicentina

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One of the most celebrated cafes of Lisbon, the Café A Brasileira at 120 Rua Garrett in the Chiado district has provided a haven for caffeinated beverages to Lisboans since 1905. It was unique at the time in serving its namesake coffee (Brazilian) imported from the state of Minas Gerais.

In the early 20th century the Café A Brasileira was a favorite hangout for Portuguese intellectuals, artists, and writers. Among the most notable was the poet Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935), who was immortalized in 1988 by the placement of a bronze statue outside the café. Pessoa would chain smoke and drink absinthe and bica, similar to espresso, while writing or reading at the cafe. He was influenced by a multitude of literary sources, including the English classical poets (Shakespeare, Byron, Tennyson). Pessoa believed himself to be a medium of multiple persons, and would revert to different personalities of alter egos as they possessed him, perhaps as a result of consuming a large quantity of absinthe. He published poems and articles under four different names that included his alter egos as well as himself.

The street that the cafe is on is named for João Baptista da Silva Leitão de Almeida Garrett (1799-1854), an important figure in the promotion of Portugeuse poetry and theater.

Tags:   Café A Brasileira Lisbon Lisboa Chiado Portugal

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Though not as grand as many of Europe’s cathedrals, the Cathedral of Saint Mary Major (Portuguese: Santa Maria Maior de Lisboa), also known as the Lisbon Cathedral, has stood for 850 years and survived multiple earthquakes, including the 1755 earthquake that destroyed much of the city. The core of the church was built in 1147 after Lisbon was “reconquered” by Christian soldiers who took over the city from the Moors as part of the second crusade.

Excavations in the central courtyard in the past several decades have revealed the cathedral was built atop a Roman road and shops, as well as a mosque used by the former rulers of the city. The cathedral contains relics of Saint Vincent of Saragossa, the patron saint of Lisbon (and Valencia), who was martyred in Spain in 304.

The suspended wires above the road provide electrical power for trams carrying tourists as well as locals commuting to work. Photos of the trams passing in front of the façade of the cathedral has become a popular Instagram post. Thus I opted for the night view with the lights of cars and tuk tuks passing in front instead.

Tags:   Lisbon Cathedral Santa Maria Maior de Lisboa Cathedral of Saint Mary Major Lisbon Lisboa Portugal tail lights night

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Reflecting a diverse mix of romantic styles of architecture, the Pena Place (Palácio da Pena) sprawls out on a summit within the Sintra Mountains, northwest of Lisbon. The palace was built originally as a summer home in the mid-1800’s for the royal family by Ferdinand II, on the site of the ruins of a 15th century convent that had been damaged by lightning and finally destroyed by the 1755 earthquake. The palace was used by the royal family up until the Republican Revolution of 1910, and it was here that Queen Amélia was spending the night when she found out (by telephone) the monarchy had been abolished.

The ornate and brightly colored towers are true to the original construction, part of a late 20th century renovation. The palace is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and a very popular tourist destination, along with several other nearby sites including a Moorish castle. One of the best attractions is a well-tended forest reserve below the palace with trails, containing plants from Asia, the South Pacific, and North America, including mature Sequoia trees and tree ferns.

Tags:   Pena Palace Palácio da Pena Sintra Pena Park Portugal

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This entrance to one of the courtyards at the Pena Palace in Sintra, Portugal, shows well the eclectic mix of architectural styles used in the construction. Particularly prominent here is the neo-Moorish (or Moorish revival) style, with elements such as the curved arches, intricate ornamentation of repeated motifs, Islamic mandalas above the portal, and intricate tiles. These elements were specifically requested by King Ferdinand and Queen Maria II, who held up construction so that they would be incorporated into what was a more Germanic style (based on the architects home country).

Tags:   Pena Palace Sintra Portugal portal neo Moorish style

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